Neoregelia schultesiana 'Fireball'
Neoregelia schultesiana 'Fireball'

Neoregelia 'Fireball'

5,99€ EUR
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An absolute classic among terrarium bromeliads. Turns completely and intensely red with plenty of light. Stays small.
Neoregelia 'Fireball'
5,99€ EUR
In stock
Description

This rather small Neoregelia likely originates from the Brazilian state of São Paulo. Individual plants grow to about 15 cm tall and reach a similar diameter. In bright light, the entire plant turns a vibrant red. Its flowers are purple, but it blooms only rarely. It produces its offshoots on fairly long rhizomes, which allows it to form a beautiful, dense stand over time, without clumping. It is particularly popular in terrariums for poison dart frogs, where its striking color and compact growth make it a perfect fit.

Although often sold under the botanically descriptive name Neoregelia schultesiana, it is not a described species but a so-called nomen nudum ("naked name"). It is also (probably) not a hybrid, as is often claimed, but a previously undescribed species. However, it has never been found in the wild, which is why botanists do not want to describe it as a separate species, as this usually requires a natural habitat. It has been cultivated since at least 1960, and those who would like to read about the interesting history of this plant can do so here .

You'll receive a healthy plant in a 6 cm pot, usually with one or even two offshoots. The plants are green when delivered (especially in winter) and only turn the bright red shown in the pictures once they receive enough light.
Care tips

Most bromeliads are easy to care for, and almost all (tropical) species can be cultivated as both terrarium and houseplants. Most bromeliads are epiphytes, meaning they grow on other plants, usually on the branches of large trees. Their roots serve only to anchor them to the substrate. With their leaves, they form a watertight funnel, a so-called phytotelma, where rainwater collects. From this, they draw their water and nutrients. As long as they always have (clean) water in their funnel, they do not need substrate or a pot.

There are also xerophytic (drought-adapted) species, which are usually characterized by more compact growth and hard, often spiny leaves. These species are better suited for dry terrariums or for growing alongside cacti and other succulents on a windowsill, rather than in a tropical terrarium.
Light & Location

This bromeliad likes bright light. A spot on a south-facing or west-facing window in direct sun is ideal. In summer, it can also be grown outdoors. Here, it is best kept in light shade.

When cultivated under grow lights, it requires strong illumination. At 5,000 to 20,000 lux or 100 to 500 PPFD (µmol/m²/s), it grows well, and the leaves develop ideal coloration. UV exposure outdoors in summer or in a terrarium under a UV lamp leads to particularly good coloration.

It prefers humidity of 50% or more.

It likes warmth. Temperatures of 25 to 30°C lead to the best growth. Since it should always have some water in its funnel, it should not be kept too cool, as this can lead to heart rot. It should also receive at least 15°C at night.
Substrate & Repotting

This plant does not require a pot or substrate. It can be cultivated free-hanging or mounted. It can be attached to a cork branch, root, stone, or similar with plant glue or string.

Under humid conditions, it can also form aerial roots. To promote this, you can also attach it with some sphagnum moss at the base, instead of entirely without substrate.

It can also be grown in a pot; sphagnum moss or coconut chips are also suitable for this.
Watering & Fertilizing

Bromeliads absorb water and nutrients through their funnel. This should always contain some water, preferably soft water such as rain or RO water. If filled with tap water, they should be regularly emptied and refilled to prevent lime scale build-up. The funnel can be filled until it overflows; this will not harm the plant and ensures it is well-watered.

Bromeliads can grow surprisingly fast with very little fertilizer. As a houseplant, they can be fertilized every 2 weeks during the growing season from approximately April to October with an orchid fertilizer. This corresponds to approximately 500 µS/cm conductivity of fertilizer. The conductivity can be determined with a TDS meter. During the autumn and winter months, fertilization should be reduced, as the plants do not receive enough light to utilize the nutrients. A weak fertilization of approximately 250 µS/cm monthly is sufficient here.

When cared for under grow lights, they can be fertilized year-round with approximately 500 µS/cm every 2 weeks.

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