Monstera obliqua 'Peru'
Monstera obliqua 'Peru'
Monstera obliqua 'Peru'
Monstera obliqua 'Peru'
Monstera obliqua 'Peru'
Monstera obliqua 'Peru'
Monstera obliqua 'Peru'
Monstera obliqua 'Peru'

Monstera obliqua 'Peru'

14,99€ EUR
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This form of Monstera obliqua probably exhibits the most extreme form of fenestration of all Monstera species. Lots of air, few leaves. Terrarium plant.
Monstera obliqua 'Peru'
Monstera obliqua 'Peru'
14,99€ EUR
In stock
Description

Monstera obliqua is widespread, occurring from southern Mexico to Brazil, Ecuador, Bolivia, and Peru. Most findings come from the southern end of its range, in Peru and Bolivia.

Like many other members of its genus with large distributions, Monstera obliqua shows very different leaf morphologies in different locations. There are forms with completely unfenestrated leaves, forms with moderately fenestrated leaves, and even the form offered here, which produces leaves that consist almost entirely of holes! However, one and the same plant always maintains "its" form and does not change its appearance.

This great variance, however, raises the question of why these very different-looking plants should all belong to the same species. If one only looks at the extreme examples at both ends of this morphological spectrum, it seems clear that they are very different plants. In nature and at the population level, however, one will find that there are unfortunately no such clear distinctions. All forms, from "only holes" to "no holes," merge fluidly depending on the habitat. In the drier areas of its range, the more robust, unperforated forms dominate. In very humid areas, one finds more of the forms with large holes (see here the comment on the herbarium sheet "bosque muy humedo tropical" = "very humid tropical forest").

Because of this great variety of forms, Monstera obliqua is not identified by botanists by leaf fenestrations, but mainly by the inflorescence and fruits, which differ greatly from the otherwise quite similar Monstera adansonii! In the original species description from 1844, holes in the leaf are not mentioned at all. This is still valid today, as the species name is still botanically accepted. However, there is a typical leaf characteristic that allows even non-flowering specimens to be identified quite well: the leaves are "oblique." One side is always larger than the other, and in mature plants, one can also see at the base of the leaf that one side has a distinct "lobe" while the other does not. It is also named after this characteristic, "obliqua" is Latin for "oblique." Unfortunately, this characteristic does not apply to all populations, but only to most. A reliable identification is therefore only possible through the flowers and fruits.

This great variance has unfortunately also led to the repeated assertion that there is only "one" true M. obliqua. This claim can be found in numerous blogs, forum posts, and even in shops. The adventurous claim is even made that the "true" M. obliqua has only been found a few times in nature at all. This is definitely not correct and simply nonsense. The species is widespread and very variable. If you wish, you can get an overview here of several hundred herbarium specimens of Monstera obliqua, all of which have been identified by botanists, including Thomas B. Croat, probably the greatest authority on South American aroids.

The form we offer here shows probably the most extreme expression of fenestration in the entire plant kingdom. The lamina of the leaf is reduced to an absolute minimum, especially in mature specimens. It probably originates from very humid lowland rainforests at the foot of the Andes in Peru and is adapted to the conditions there. Accordingly, this form of M. obliqua is only conditionally suitable as a houseplant and should rather be kept in a terrarium or plant cabinet.

You will receive a strong young plant in a 6 cm pot, approx. 15 to 20 cm high.
Care tips

This plant is a climbing Araceae.

Due to their lifestyle, climbing aroids are also called “nomadic” vines. They usually begin their lives on the forest floor, where they live as rather thin vines with poorly differentiated leaves and try to find a tree to climb. If they find a suitable surface to climb, they attach themselves to it with special adhesive roots (similar to ivy) and grow upwards. Only then do the leaves differentiate into their later adult form, and only then do they grow larger. Many species also form so-called aerial roots after a few meters, which, unlike adhesive roots, do not serve to attach to the substrate, but instead hang freely down to the ground, thus supplying the plant with additional nutrients. Often, after a few years and several meters of stem length, the lower part of the stem that connects the plant to the ground also dies off, and it is then only in contact with the soil via the aerial roots. The plant now lives as a so-called hemiepiphyte, or “half-epiphyte.”
In this way, nomadic vines climb large primeval forest trees over many years, finally reaching their maximum size and flowering in the treetop.

This way of life should be imitated in cultivation (at least to some extent) to obtain beautiful and healthy plants. Many climbing aroids are easy to care for in indoor cultivation, despite their unusual lifestyle.
Light & Location

As a young plant, this plant grows in the shaded undergrowth, and as an adult plant, in the much brighter canopies of primeval forest trees. With insufficient light and no climbing aid, it remains in its juvenile form and becomes etiolated. Bright to very bright indirect light, e.g., next to a west or east window or somewhat sheltered by a south window, is ideal.

When grown under grow lights, e.g., in a plant cabinet, terrarium, or grow tent, it requires quite strong lighting. It grows well at 5,000 to 10,000 lux or 90 to 180 PPFD (µmol/m²/s).

Supplemental lighting to better get through the dark winter months greatly helps this plant. Otherwise, it will develop significantly smaller leaves during the winter, which look unsightly overall.

This vine prefers humidity of 70% or more and still grows well at over 90% RH. It is not sensitive to cool temperatures and can even withstand night temperatures of 15°C, but it only grows well at 23°C or higher.
Substrate & Repotting

This plant prefers a coarse to very coarse, airy yet consistently moist substrate. It should be potted in a loose, acidic (pH below 7), and very airy mix. For this plant, we recommend our Aroid Mix or, for larger specimens with a pot size of 30 cm or more, pure coconut chips.

The pot for this plant does not need to be particularly large. A pot that is too large will cause the substrate to dry out on top while remaining wet at the bottom. This can lead to overwatering, as one might mistakenly believe the plant needs more water when it is already sufficiently moist. Finding the right pot size requires some experimentation. As a guideline: If you can water approximately every 5 to 10 days, and the substrate is almost completely dry in between (just bügelfeucht, meaning slightly damp like clothes after ironing), the size is well chosen.

As this is a climbing plant, a climbing aid should be provided to allow it to exhibit its natural growth. For this, you can either offer a coir pole as a pure support for aerial roots or (even better) a moss pole filled with Sphagnum moss or a mix of Sphagnum and coconut chips. The moss pole not only serves as a climbing support but also provides extra root space for the plant if the pole is kept consistently moist.
Watering & Fertilizing

This plant should never dry out completely, but how moist it likes to be depends heavily on the (substrate) temperature. At temperatures above 25°C, it can be kept consistently moist to wet. If it is kept as a houseplant (especially on the windowsill), it should be watered sparingly in winter, as the combination of colder temperatures and moisture can weaken it and lead to rot.

This is a fast-growing species that needs a lot of fertilizer. Fertilization should take place during the main growing season, from approx. May to September. If there is no additional lighting, this plant will barely grow from October to April and does not need to be fertilized. No special fertilizer is required. A normal complete fertilizer (N-P-K + trace elements) for houseplants is sufficient. We recommend using the dosage specified by the manufacturer (this corresponds to about 1000 µS/cm conductivity of fertilizer).

When cared for under grow lights, it can be fertilized year-round.

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